
La Comida del Barrio by Aarón Sanchez
I am a bit obsessed with Mexican food. Raised amid the intoxicating fragrance of my mom’s homemade flour tortillas, I have always known the infinite superiority of a fresh, warm, butter-drenched tortilla to the store bought kind. When I was in High School, my mom would sell breakfast burritos - chorizo and egg, green chile, etc. – to raise money for all of my extracurricular activities. She would wake at 4am to make several dozen tortillas. I remember waking to the smell of flour wafting into my room. I remember helping my mom roll and wrap the burritos in tin foil. Most of all, I remember the sensation of the soft, sweet masa melting in my mouth, a perfect canvas for the flavors of the chorizo and chile. Memories of my mother’s love, expressed through rich food, define my childhood.
In my mid-twenties, after a half decade of surviving on fast food and ramen noodles and my first real crisis of conscience over the injustices of the global food system, I decided to learn how to execute my mom’s recipe. After a few batches that were too dry, and a couple of burns from la placa, I eventually mastered the art of making a gorgeous flour tortilla. While my version was inevitably derided for not being quite as tasty as mom’s, she couldn’t have been more proud of me for learning this tradition.
Once I learned how to make great tortillas, the next step was to learn how to make yummy stuff to fill them with. I am always on the lookout for recipes and cookbooks that keep me connected to my Mexican food heritage. While it is easy to find cookbooks, cooking shows, and online recipes that can teach you how to make tortillas, these sources tend to gloss over the specific cultural context that make tortillas so special. They miss the rich contextual background that, frankly, makes our food so damn good.
Today I received my copy of Aarón Sanchez’s La Comida del Barrio: Latin American Cooking in the U.S.A. Educated in his mother’s kitchen and restaurant before attending culinary college at Johnson and Wales in Providence, RI, Sanchez is truly a master of Latin cuisine. You may recognize his from The Food Network’s Chopped,The Next Iron Chef, and Heat Seekers, where he shows off his culinary chops… and, let’s be honest, his dashing good looks. In La Comida, Sanchez aims to add depth to our understanding of Latino cuisine in the U.S.A. by exploring the vibrant diversity among Latino communities and cultures across the United States. Sanchez’s thesis, if a cookbook can have a thesis, is that Latin food is defined as much by place and culture as by the meal. Tortillas, tamales, and pan dulce have stories that are as fundamental as their ingredients. Sanchez’s objective is to unearth some of the narratival context that makes our food so beautiful.
In La Comida, Sanchez takes the reader on a journey across the country’s Latino communities, highlighting the food, venues, and cultural context that make each place unique. He includes gorgeous photographs and narratives that reveal the emotional and experiential richness of our food. Further, By situating his culinary exploration inlos barrios de los Estados Unidos, Sanchez gestures to the social, economic, and political realities of our communities. In this way, La Comida del Barrio accomplishes something that I have seen in very few Latin cookbooks: sharing the richness of Latino food and social life without commodifying it.
I cannot recommend this book highly enough. I had a hard time finding a new copy for a reasonable price ($70.77 USD online), but I did find a former library copy for $2.54 USD (Seriously). My copy still has the library bar codes and a bit of water damage, but those imperfections make me love it even more:
Sanchez’s next effort, Simple Food, Big Flavor: Unforgettable Mexican-Inspired Recipes from My Kitchen to Yours, is due out in a couple of months. If La Comida is any indicator, we can expect Sanchez to continue to reveal the beauty of nuestra cultura through his passion and knowledge for food.
In the meantime, does anyone want to take me to Sanchez’s Paladar for my birthday?
gracia y paz,
nmfh